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Mods
Mods
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Suspension |
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17 inch 4th generation Supra TT wheels. Front: 17x8" wearing 235x45 Nitto 555s. Rear: 17x9.5" wearing 285x40 Yokohma A520s. With the 285 rears a spacer is required to prevent the tire rubbing the shock. The front offset needs to be larger also. The wheels look a little funny because they are set in a little to far. |
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H&R Sport Springs. The springs lower the car approximately 1.25" in the front and .75" in the rear. They are slightly stiffer than the stock springs (sorry about the seat of the pants measurement but it's all I got). | |
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Greddy front strut tower brace. This brace has very low clearance due to the
tight clearance between the engine and hood. It touches both the intake manifold
and the hood.
[Installed Brace] [Right End] [Right Side Clearance] [Left Side Clearance] |
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Brembo slotted front brake rotors. | |
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Turbocharger/Intake |
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I am currently running a modified stock CT-26 turbo (the OEM turbo).
Majestic Turbo Charger clips the intake housing, installs a new compressor
wheel and ports the exhaust housing. Currently I run 14 psi of boost,
limited by my fuel injectors. With bigger injectors, I could use the
higher boost the turbo is capable of. Currently the engine makes an
estimated 350 flywheel (based on injector duty cycle and size as well
as rear wheel horse power). The modified turbo should be able to support
into the mid 400 horse power range. In addition to the added capacity,
modifying the turbo drastically reduced lag.
[Shrink Wrapped] [Intake Side] [Exhaust Side] [Installed Turbo] |
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I use an HKS EVC IV to control boost. The unit reduces lag as compared to the analog actuator by keeping the waste gate closed until the last moment. Setting up the EVC is a bit tricky with the automatic, but once calibrated choosing a boost pressure is a matter of changing a volume style dial. I would change the way the dial works (it is used to adjust every setting on the controller). It is based on absolute position so changing boost pressure after adjusting another setting requires finding the old pressure on the dial before adjusting it. | |
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HKS Front Mount Intercooler with hard-pipe kit. This is a tube and fin intercooler.
The hard pipes are made of thin walled steal pipe. I have converted many of the clamps
on intake to stainless heavy duty clamps after having several of the original (and 5
year old) pipe clamps fail.
[Installed Cross Pipe] [Core] [Inside Fins] [Hard Pipes] [Cross Pipe] |
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K&N FIPK and (partially finished) intake shield. | |
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HKS Turbo Timer. | |
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SPI Boost Gauge. | |
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Fuel System |
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HKS F-Con auxiliary fuel computer and Fuel Cut Defenser.
Otherwise, I am using original injectors (440cc), fuel pressure regulator and mass air flow sensor. |
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Exhaust System |
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HKS 3" down pipe. 3" exhaust and muffler. | |
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Autometer exhaust gas temperature guage with the sensor in the exhaust elbow. | |
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Drive Line |
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| Level Ten stage 3 transmission rebuild. | ||
| ProTorque modified torque converter - 500 additional stall. | ||
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Miscilaneous |
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Crank case vent catch can. This is a custom vent can (i.e. I put it together for next to nothing). The filter is a $8 honda/acura crank case vent filter I bought from Autozone (K&N filters run around $40) and the can is a gift from a friend that go-cart races. I fabricated the bracket. | |
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Lowtech pillar bar dual guage pod. | |
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M-10 Twin Blinder, Laser Jammer.
[Complete Blinder Package] [The Box and One Jaming Unit] [Disclaimer] |
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Toyota front end bra. I use this for long trips on the highway to protect the front end of the car from rocks. | |
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